Welcome to the Ingredient Lab
See how your skincare is made
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At the heart of our practice is a rigorous three-step screening process that ensures every ingredient meets our standards for safety, efficacy, and excellence before becoming part of our curation.
Scientific Validation We start by doing a deep dive into the scientific literature to assess an ingredient’s safety, benefits, and performance. Only ingredients backed by research or guaranteed by centuries of traditional ethnobotanical use make it to the next stage.
Sensory & Performance Testing
Next, we order the ingredient and test it on ourselves, evaluating texture, compatibility with other ingredients, and—most importantly—visible results. If it doesn’t feel exceptional and deliver on its promise, it doesn’t move forward.Blind Sourcing & Comparison
Once an ingredient proves its worth, we source it from multiple purveyors worldwide and conduct blind comparison tests to find the absolute best version. Only the highest-quality ingredients earn a place in our curation.This process ensures that every ingredient we choose is effective, sensorially beautiful, and sourced with intention.
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No matter how powerful the ingredients, if they can’t penetrate the stratum corneum—the skin’s outermost layer—they can’t do their job. That’s why we designed The Bar Line to act as a unified, layered delivery system—three products that work as one to deliver the right actives to the right depth, in the right amount, every time.
When used together, the products in The Bar Line create a synergistic effect. Each product primes the skin for what comes next, making the actives in each formula more effective and the entire process more rewarding.
Cocktail Essence
Fermentation is the key to this formula's delivery system. It breaks down ingredients into smaller, more bioavailable molecules that the skin can more easily absorb. It’s skin-friendly probiotic formula also enhances the skin’s natural ability to utilize these ingredients. This ensures that active compounds are absorbed more effectively and delivered to the deeper layers of the skin, where they can have the greatest impact.Crystal Serum This lightweight, fast-absorbing serum delivers a precise dose of water-soluble ingredients, activated at the moment of use for maximum freshness and potency. While the skin is composed of about 64% water, its outermost layer—the stratum corneum—is dry and lipid-rich, making it difficult for water-loving actives to penetrate on their own. To support deeper absorption, we layer the Serum after our Cocktail Essence, which hydrates and softens the skin barrier. We also use smaller molecule actives when possible and a thoughtfully sequenced routine to help these ingredients reach the layers where they can be most effective.
Botanical Oils Oil-based delivery can facilitate deeper penetration into the skin and enhance the amount of an active the skin absorbs. Because the skin’s outermost layer is lipid-rich, oil-based delivery systems can align with its structure to support better absorption of oil-soluble actives. Oil softens the stratum corneum, making it more permeable and receptive. When applied as the final step, the oil forms a breathable occlusive layer that locks in hydration, supports barrier function, and enhances the availability of the products layered beneath it.
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Blending skincare is more than following a recipe—it’s the art of crafting a formula that can speak your skin’s language. It calls for the kind of insight that comes from experience reading the skin and sensing its needs, interpreting ingredient interactions, and building skincare rituals that feel as good as they perform—because skincare should nourish your senses as much as your skin.
Blending is also a uplifting collaboration between client and formulator —where your lived experience of your skin’s rhythms and sensitivities meets the trained eye and practiced hand of the formulator. You bring an intimate knowledge of your skin; I bring a deep understanding of ingredients, interactions, and formulation. Together, we shape something that’s more than a product—it’s the story of your skin’s journey toward balance, resilience, and renewal - a story, not only of what your skin was and will be, but of what is possible when people of good will come together to realize a shared vision of the good.
COCKTAIL ESSENCE
We infuse potent fermented actives into a base rich in postbiotics and skin healthy metabolites.**
How to Build a Skincare Cocktail
Ready to help create your own signature skincare cocktail?
Your custom formula starts with a Base of GFF (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate), a powerhouse ingredient known to brighten, smooth, and hydrate while supporting overall skin resilience.
Next, we add supportive ferments from the Cocktail Base Ingredient Selector to help optimize your skin barrier and boost its natural defenses.
Then, we’ll add targeted ferments from the Active Ingredient Selector designed to address your skin’s specific needs.
The result? A custom Cocktail Essence that’s as effective at transforming your skin as it is skintoxicating.
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (GFF) – A byproduct of yeast fermentation shown to significantly improve skin brightness, hydration, and barrier function. In a published study, daily topical application led to reductions in pore size while increasing skin moisture and elasticity. Rich in antioxidants, enzymes, vitamins, and peptides, Galactomyces supports skin homeostasis and has been linked to visible improvements in tone, smoothness, and overall clarity.
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate – A nutrient-dense ferment derived from yeast, Saccharomyces Ferment is rich in amino acids, beta-glucans, and minerals. Studies have shown it can improve skin clarity and brightness, enhance hydration, and help regulate oxidative stress. It also supports gentle exfoliation, encouraging smoother skin texture and improved absorption of other actives.
Vegan Lactobacillus Ferment – A probiotic ferment known to help balance the skin’s microbiome. Topical lactobacillus lysates can reduce redness, improve barrier function, and modulate skin’s immune response. It’s particularly effective for calming sensitive or acne-prone skin, and supports long-term resilience against environmental stressors.
Radish Root Ferment Filtrate – A natural preservative derived from the fermentation of Leuconostoc bacteria with radish root, this ferment has demonstrated strong antimicrobial activity. It helps maintain product freshness while also offering skin-conditioning benefits. Its mild nature makes it well-suited to sensitive skin, with added hydrating and soothing effects.
Cocktail Base Ingredient Selector
Agave Ferment
Agave’s remarkable ability to thrive under intense sun and heat makes it a natural ally for skin exposed to environmental stress. To protect itself, the agave plant produces heat shock proteins (HSPs)—specialized molecules that help cells resist damage and recover from thermal stress. When fermented, agave’s protective and adaptive compounds become more bioavailable, helping support the skin’s own defense mechanisms, reduce signs of inflammation, and improve resilience against UV, pollution and temperature stress.
Bamboo Ferment
Rich in silica and antioxidants, fermented bamboo helps strengthen the skin’s structure while refining texture and tone. The fermentation process increases its bioavailability, making it more effective at boosting elasticity and defending against oxidative stress.
Fermented Barbados Cherry
Also known as acerola, this tropical superfruit is packed with vitamin C and polyphenols. Fermentation enhances its antioxidant capacity, helping to brighten skin, improve firmness, and support collagen synthesis while reducing visible signs of stress.
Fermented Blueberry Stem Cells
Combining the regenerative potential of plant stem cells with the antioxidant intensity of blueberries, this fermented active defends against environmental stress while stimulating cellular renewal. Rich in polyphenols and bioactives, it helps boost ATP synthesis and support optimal cellular metabolism—delivering both protectant and visible anti-aging benefits.
Cocoa Bean Ferment
A rich source of theobromine and flavonoids, fermented cocoa bean helps energize skin, improve microcirculation, and fight free radical damage.
Fermented Date Palm
Naturally rich in amino acids, minerals, and antioxidants, fermented date palm defends against oxidative stress and glycation—two major drivers of premature aging. Its phytoestrogenic compounds help support collagen production and skin density, making it especially beneficial for hormonally affected or maturing skin.
Green Tea Ferment
One of the most well-studied antioxidant botanicals, green tea contains EGCG, known to calm inflammation, reduce excess oil, and protect against UV and pollution damage.
Active Ingredient Selector
Lycopene Ferment
This potent carotenoid, extracted from tomatoes, becomes even more bioavailable when fermented. It helps shield skin from environmental aggressors, supports collagen maintenance, and plays a key role in protecting DNA from oxidative damage.
Lemon Peel Ferment*
Packed with brightening enzymes and vitamin C, fermented lemon peel is a natural way to inhibit tyrosinase to help lighten dark spots. Fermentation minimizes irritation potential while enhancing antioxidant potency, making it ideal for brightening without compromising barrier health
Multi-Mineral Ferment (Silicon, Magnesium, Copper, Iron, and Zinc)
This biofermented mineral complex delivers essential trace elements in a form the skin can absorb more easily. Each mineral plays a unique role—zinc soothes and clarifies, magnesium calms, copper supports collagen, iron promotes oxygenation, and silicon helps maintain firmness. Fermentation enhances their delivery and efficacy, promoting optimal skin metabolism.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) Liposomes
Encapsulated for optimal delivery, this liposomal form of niacinamide penetrates more deeply and efficiently. It helps brighten, refine, smooth, reduce redness, and strengthen the barrier.
Oat Couture Ferment
Rich in beta-glucans and skin-soothing polysaccharides, fermented oat offers enhanced calming and barrier-repair properties. The fermentation process breaks down oat compounds into smaller, more bioavailable molecules, making it even more effective at reducing redness, dryness, and irritation. A ‘must-have’ for comforting stressed, reactive, or dehydrated skin.
Purslane Ferment
Known as a “longevity herb,” purslane is packed with antioxidants, omega-3s, and CoQ10. Fermentation unlocks its full potential, enhancing its anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. This active is especially effective when partnered with Vitamin C.
Fermented Pumpkin Enzyme
A powerful ally for acne-prone and oily skin, fermented pumpkin seed is naturally rich in zinc and copper—minerals known to help regulate sebum production and reduce breakouts. Fermentation enhances its bioavailability and generates antioxidant-rich secondary metabolites that scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), soothe inflammation, and reinforce the skin barrier.
Fermented Red Clover Flower *
Traditionally known for its phytoestrogenic properties, red clover offers skin-strengthening and rebalancing benefits—especially for hormonally reactive or maturing skin. Fermentation refines its active compounds, increasing skin affinity and amplifying its ability to reduce the look of enlarged pores, calm sensitivity, and support elasticity.
Fermented Resveratrol
A powerhouse antioxidant derived from grapes, resveratrol is known for its protective and longevity-supporting effects. Fermentation improves its stability and skin penetration, making it more effective at defending against environmental stress, reducing inflammation, and preserving a youthful glow.
Wakame Ferment *
This mineral-rich seaweed is naturally packed with fucoidan, amino acids, and polysaccharides that protect against environmental stressors while deeply hydrating the skin. Fermentation supercharges its antioxidant potential and unlocks greater bioavailability. Shown in DNA microarray studies to increase oxygen consumption and enhance oxidative phosphorylation, fermented wakame boosts mitochondrial efficiency while reducing the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The result: skin that’s visibly firmer and more vital.
Wasabi Ferment *
This rare ferment harnesses the bioactive power of Wasabia japonica, rich in antioxidant and detoxifying compounds like isothiocyanates, oxido-reductases and sulfur-containing glucosinolates. Once fermented, wasabi becomes gentle on skin yet even more effective at inhibiting UV-induced DNA damage. With antimicrobial and purifying benefits as well, fermented wasabi is ideal for city-stressed, acne-prone, or fatigued skin.
*Wildcrafted or Certified Organic (USDA or EcoCert)
**Ferments are stored under refrigeration and naturally preserved using combinations of Leuconostoc/Radish Root, Leucidal Liquid at 2%. As Galactomyces can not be preserved by these methods we generally carry two types: one preserved with Hydroxyacetophenone (0.5%), 1,2-hexanediol (0.5%), the other with Butylene Glycol.
CRYSTAL SERUM INGREDIENTS
To make CRYSTAL SERUM we blend four powerful custom-made mini-formulas into one transformative serum.**
How We Craft Your Crystal Serum
Your serum begins with Sake Silk™—a proprietary blend of kasu, koji, and rice powder that forms the nourishing, skin-refining Base of your formula.
Next, we tailor the Base with ingredients that balance your skin’s moisture, oil, and microbiome—while creating a texture that feels just right, whether you prefer silky, creamy, or weightless.
Want to add a subtle aromatic touch to your serum? If you choose, we will add essential oils to your Base at this time.
Finally, we layer in three rounds of targeted actives:
• The first to Moisturize
• The second to Protect
• The third to Correct & Renew
The result? A custom serum designed to meet your skin where it is, and take it where you want it to go.
Sake Silk™ – Our proprietary blend harnesses the time-honored power of Japanese rice fermentation. Koji Rice Powder—a concentrated source of enzymes, vitamins, and amino acids—and Sake Kasu —a byproduct of traditional sake brewing, rich in natural kojic acid, a gentle brightener, are blended with Organic Rice Powder. Together, this trio delivers mattifying, brightening, barrier-repair, moisture retention, smoothing and nourishing benefits in one potent, skin-loving complex.
Serum Base Ingredient Selector
Arrowroot – A fine, silky starch that smooths and soothes, helping to reduce redness and improve powder spreadability without drying or clogging the skin.
Tapioca Starch – Offers oil-absorbing benefits with a weightless feel, refining skin texture and supporting a fresh, matte finish.
Coconut Milk – Moisturizing and rich in skin-softening lipids, it enhances suppleness while delivering a creamy texture when activated.
Trehalose – A sugar-derived extremolyte that shields skin from dehydration and oxidative stress, helping maintain hydration and cellular integrity in harsh environments.
Inulin – A naturally derived prebiotic that nourishes the skin’s microbiome, strengthening barrier function and supporting smoother, more resilient skin.
Peach Fruit Extract – Hydrating and emollient, it softens the skin while delivering gentle antioxidant protection from fruit-derived sugars and acids.
Essential Oils
White Rose Alba, Valley of then Roses, Bulgaria - Elegant and potent, Rose Alba calms sensitive skin, reduces redness, and supports natural moisture retention. Its rich antioxidant profile helps defend against environmental stress while promoting a radiant, balanced complexion. With a scent known to soothe the heart, Rose Alba brings both skin and spirit into harmony.
Sandalwood, Mysore, India - Rare A grade is deeply grounding and luxurious. Sandalwood oil soothes irritation, softens roughness, and gently purifies the skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties help calm stressed or reactive skin while restoring a supple, velvety texture. A sacred heart wood with a warm, creamy scent that anchors both skin and mood.
Bourbon Geranium Rosat, Réunion Island - Prized for its exceptional softness and floral balance, Geranium Rosat helps calm visible irritation, balance oil production, and support a clearer, more even complexion. Its gentle yet effective nature makes it ideal for oily, sensitive, dry, or combination skin with a scent that is uplifting, refined, and naturally elegant.
Moisturizing Ingredient Selector
Ready to get moisturizing? Moisture is about more than hydration—it depends on the integrity of your skin barrier, your skin’s overall health, and its interaction with the environment. We design your moisturizing formula to support all three—so your skin stays deeply hydrated, supple, balanced, and resilient in any condition.
PREBIOTICS
Prebiotics feed your skin’s microbiome. They help regulate moisture levels, improve the skin’s barrier function, and enhance its resilience against environmental stressors and calm inflmmtion.
Dragon Fruit – Contains oligosaccharides that nourish beneficial skin bacteria, supporting a balanced microbiome. Naturally rich in vitamin C and antioxidants, it also promotes collagen production and visibly brightens the skin.
Konjac – A prebiotic polysaccharide that nurtures beneficial skin bacteria while gently exfoliating and deeply hydrating. Its soothing, cushiony texture supports barrier repair and helps calm sensitive or reactive skin.
Oat Beta Glucan – A deeply penetrating polysaccharide that acts as a prebiotic while calming irritation, boosting collagen, and enhancing hydration. Its unique ability to support skin repair and barrier resilience makes it especially helpful for sensitive or stressed skin.
Snow Mushroom – Contains prebiotic polysaccharides that promote the growth of beneficial skin bacteria. These polysaccharides also provide deep hydration, stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation, and protect the skin from oxidative damage
HUMECTANTS
Humectants draw moisture into the skin and support its ability to hold onto water. These humectants do more than hydrate — they also soothe, repair, and reinforce the skin barrier, improving suppleness and resilience across all skin types. The ingredients listed below are ordered from most to least hydrating, based on water-binding capacity, molecular weight, and skin affinity
Hyaluronic Acid – A water-binding glycosaminoglycan that holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, cushioning the skin while improving elasticity and accelerating wound healing.
Ectoin – An extremolyte molecule sourced from microorganisms in harsh environments; stabilizes proteins and cell membranes, shields against stress, and binds water to support long-lasting hydration.
Betaine – A natural osmolyte derived from sugar beets that balances water flow in and out of skin cells, strengthening barrier function and reducing sensitivity.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5) – A biologically active humectant that penetrates the stratum corneum to hydrate and stimulate barrier repair enzymes, reducing inflammation and transepidermal water loss.
Allantoin – A keratolytic humectant that increases water content in the extracellular matrix while soothing irritation and supporting cellular repair and turnover.
Lactic Acid – A gentle alpha hydroxy acid and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that hydrates while promoting cell turnover, improving skin texture and luminosity.
FILM FORMING AGENTS
Create a breathable, flexible barrier on the skin’s surface that helps lock in moisture, smooth texture, tighten skin and support overall barrier function. The ingredients below are ranked from most to least film-forming potential, based on their molecular structure, occlusive ability, and commonly observed performance in formulations
Polyglutamic Acid – A peptide polymer that forms a soft, elastic film on the skin, trapping four times more moisture than hyaluronic acid while boosting the skin’s natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and improving elasticity and smoothness.
Galactoarabinan – A larch tree–derived polysaccharide that creates a sheer film on the skin to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and encourage gentle exfoliation for smoother, more even texture.
Snow Mushroom – Rich in high molecular weight polysaccharides that form a hydrating matrix over the skin, mimicking the moisture-retentive effects of hyaluronic acid while delivering antioxidant protection and supporting collagen synthesis.
Oat Beta Glucan – Forms a weightless, moisture-locking barrier while penetrating deeply to soothe, support wound healing, and reinforce skin structure through collagen stimulation.
Konjac – Contains glucomannan-based polysaccharides that create a soft, cushioning layer to retain hydration while gently exfoliating and calming irritated skin.
Protective Ingredient Selector
Protect your skin from damage.
Light, heat and pollution can compromise your skin’s appearance. We’ll blend the exact ingredients you need to defend against the threats you face everyday—fortifying your barrier, neutralizing harmful effects of free radicals before they take hold, and strengthening your skin’s ability to repair and regenerate itself.
VITAMIN C ANTIOXIDANTS
Potent scavenging antioxidants that brighten, firm, and stimulate collagen. All forms offer antioxidant support, but some provide deeper delivery, better stability, or gentler action.
L-Ascorbic Acid - The gold standard for collagen synthesis, brightening and antioxidant defense. Unstable in heat, light and air, making it best for nighttime use or under sunscreen to prevent deactivation. Not ideal for sensitive skin due to low pH.
Acerola Cherry Extract - A natural source of vitamin C, standardized to 25% ascorbic acid. Offers antioxidant support with phytonutrient synergy.
Ascorbyl Glucoside - A gentle, water-stable derivative that slowly converts to active vitamin C in the skin, offering sustained antioxidant activity with less irritation.
Ethyl Ascorbate - The strongest, most stable and deeply penetrating derivative. Excellent for daily brightening and environmental defense.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate - The most hydrating and calming form. Ideal for dry, reactive, or inflamed skin.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - A highly stable and well-tolerated form with strong anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Especially effective for acne-prone skin.
ENZYMATIC ANTIOXIDANTS
Superoxide Dismutase - Unlike scavenging antioxidants which combat free radicals after the fact, SOD is a first responder to various skin concerns and conditions associated with oxidative stress (like aging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation).
ANTIOXIDANT REGENERATORS
These ingredients work synergistically to enhance overall antioxidant capacity.
Ferulic Acid – Enhances the stability and potency of vitamins C and E, amplifying their antioxidant power while offering direct UV defense and anti-inflammatory benefits of its own.
Glutathione Liposomes – Recycles oxidized vitamin C back to its active form and supports detoxification of heavy metals.
Niacinamide – Helps regenerate both glutathione and vitamin C, while reinforcing the skin barrier and balancing oil production.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid – Regenerates glutathione, vitamin C, and vitamin E. Acts at both the water- and fat-soluble levels to improve skin tone, energy, and smoothness.
Soy Isoflavones – Provide antioxidant protection while stimulating collagen and elastin production; help support vitamin E function in cell membranes.
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) – Recharges vitamin E, protects mitochondrial membranes from oxidative stress, and supports healthy collagen and elastin by energizing skin cells.
Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E) – Lipid-soluble antioxidant that protects against photooxidative damage. Helps regenerate vitamin C and supports CoQ10 within cell membranes.
GLYCATION DEFENSE
Protects the skin from the visible effects of sugar-related aging by intercepting and reversing the formation of Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs). These targeted ingredients preserve collagen integrity, improve elasticity, and help maintain skin texture and structure.
N Acetyl L-Carnosine – Binds to reactive carbonyl compounds before they can attach to proteins, effectively halting the formation of damaging AGEs that stiffen collagen and reduce skin elasticity.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid – A powerful dual-soluble antioxidant that disrupts glycation pathways and scavenges existing AGEs, helping to preserve dermal structure
Trans-Resveratrol – Enhances the skin's ability to repair oxidative and glycation-related damage at the cellular level, helping to minimize the long-term effects of these processes and maintain skin’s structural integrity.
Correct & Renew Ingredient Selector
Unlike the Protective Blend, which helps guard against future damage, this blend targets existing skin issues. Wether it’s acne or aging, an inflammatory condition or problems with tone, we’ll blend a formula that helps repair and reverse any visible damage and corrects for the condition going forward.
COLLAGEN BOOSTERS
These ingredients strengthen skin by stimulating fibroblasts, protecting collagen from breakdown, and enhancing the production of key collagen types (I, III, and more) — helping skin stay firm, elastic, and structurally supported.
Copper Tri-Peptide -1 - Mimics human growth factors and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes to stimulate types I, II, III, and IV.
Vitamin C - Protects collagen from degradation. Essential cofactor in production of collagen types I and III.
Gotu Kola - Boosts fibroblast activity to increase collagen I and III. Synergistic with peptides and vitamin C.
Niacinimide - Stimulates collagen I and III production while strengthening the skin barrier and reducing collagen degradation.
Hibiscus Extract - Inhibits collagen breakdown (via MMPs), may also promote synthesis indirectly.
Green Pea Peptides - Delivers essential amino acids to support type I collagen synthesis. Supportive rather than stimulatory. Synergistic in long-term firming blends
LONGEVITY BOOSTERS
Designed to actively slow the skin’s aging process and help skin cell live longer in a healthy, functional state, these ingredients extend the lifespan of skin cells. By promoting cellular resilience and longevity, they help preserve firmness, elasticity, and overall youthful function over time.
Apple Stem Cell - Promotes skin cell regeneration and delays visible signs of aging by increasing cellular proliferation. It helps maintain skin's youthful appearance by supporting the longevity of skin stem cells and encouraging skin renewal.
Ectoin - Supports cellular repair by promoting autophagy, the process by which cells clear out damaged components. Ectoin also helps stabilize skin's structure, reducing the effects of environmental stress and promoting long-lasting skin health.
Snow Algae - Activates the Klotho gene, which is linked to longevity and cell protection. It increases ATP production, providing cells with more energy and mimicking the skin benefits of calorie restriction, ultimately slowing down the skin’s aging process.
Trans-Resveratrol - A potent antioxidant that activates sirtuins, enzymes responsible for repairing DNA and promoting cell survival. It slows skin aging by protecting cells from oxidative stress and maintaining mitochondrial function, leading to smoother, more resilient skin.
ENERGY BOOSTERS
These actives fuel the skin’s cells with vital energy, improve oxygen and nutrient delivery, and support mitochondrial function—helping the skin look more vibrant, energized, and resilient under stress.
ATP - Directly supplies energy to skin cells, enhancing cellular processes for healthy, youthful skin.
Alpha Lipoic Acid - Acts as a cofactor for key enzymes, supports glucose metabolism, boosts microcirculation, and helps maintain skin vitality.
Caffeine - Boosts microcirculation and signaling to increase access to oxygen and nutrients, reducing puffiness, and energizing the skin.
Coenzyme Q10 - Essential for electron transport in mitochondria, it boosts ATP production, energizing skin cells and reducing the signs of aging.
D Ribose - Fuels the production of nucleotides, supporting cellular regeneration and enhancing skin’s energy and recovery processes.
Niacinamide - Enhances cellular respiration, supports mitochondrial repair, and increases skin’s energy efficiency, promoting a youthful, radiant complexion.
SKIN REPAIR BOOSTERS
Skin Repair Boosters support and accelerate the skin’s natural healing process. These ingredients fuel regeneration by stimulating cell turnover, enhancing growth factor activity, and supplying essential building blocks for tissue repair and barrier recovery.
Heparan Sulfate - Directly facilitates repair signaling between growth factors and skin cells, accelerating regeneration, improving elasticity, and supporting barrier restoration, especially effective in sensitive or barrier-impaired skin.
Beta Glucan - Dual action: stimulates fibroblasts to boosts collagen production while promoting tissue regeneration and soothing pain relief.
Amino Acids - Proline, lysine, and glycine serve as critical building blocks for collagen and elastin synthesis, aiding in tissue repair and in promoting long term recovery and skin strength.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) – Dual action: increases keratinocyte proliferation to rebuild surface tissue rapidly while hydrating and soothing irritated skin.
Allantoin - Promotes cellular turnover, soothes irritation, and accelerates recovery from minor wounds. Broadly compatible and effective in stressed or reactive skin.
Gotu Kola - Increases fibroblast production and collagen synthesis; contains triterpenoids like madecassosides that enhances both healing and resilience.
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
These ingredients actively reduce inflammation at the biochemical level by suppressing inflammatory pathways. This helps minimize swelling, redness, and immune overreaction in the skin.
Gotu Kola - Inhibits pro-inflammatory enzymes and cytokines while supporting skin repair.
Licorice Extract - Multi-pathway modulator, including COX-2.
N-Acetyl Glucosamine -Reduces cytokine expression, helping to quiet inflammation. Works best paired with Niacinamide.
Soy Isoflavones - Calms inflammation by regulating kinase activity and immune signals over time.
Chrysanthemum - Calms reactive skin by suppressing the release of inflammatory cytokines, gentler than the others.
SOOTHING IRRITATION
These ingredients calm sensory discomfort and strengthen the skin’s tolerance. They help reduce itching, burning, stinging, or visible redness caused by environmental stress or skin reactivity—often by cooling, hydrating, or blocking irritation signals.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide/15 - Targets pain receptors (TRPV1), offering precise relief from stinging and burning; highly effective.
L-Theanine – Reduces neurogenic inflammation; calming at the neurosensory level.
Bifida Lysate – Modulates immune reactivity and barrier function but works over a longer time frame than others on this list; strong barrier-supportive effect.
Oat Beta-Glucan - Deeply calming, reinforces skin barrier, and decreases itching and stinging via immune modulation.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) – Dual action: deep hydration and anti-itch/anti-sting; well-studied and fast-acting.
Cucumber Extract - Inhibits histamine release, gentle but effective for acute irritation.
Allantoin - A classic soother; promotes recovery and reduces itching through mild keratolytic and anti-irritant effects.
Watermelon - Primarily offers surface cooling and hydration; immediate relief but not deeply modulatory.
BRIGHTENING & PIGMENT
These ingredients target different stages of melanin production and distribution to help even skin tone, fade discoloration, and promote a more luminous complexion.
L-Ascorbic Acid - Brightens by inhibiting tyrosinase, reducing oxidative stress, and limiting melanosome transfer.
Alpha Arbutin - Potent tyrosinase inhibitor that’s more stable and gentler than hydroquinone, with good efficacy and safety.
Tranexamic Acid - Especially effective for melasma and PIH; works via anti-inflammatory mechanisms, but slower to act than vitamin C or arbutin.
Glutathione - Helps shift melanin synthesis toward lighter pigments (pheomelanin), reducing overall pigmentation and dullness. Especially useful for fading spots left after acne or irritation.
B3+NAG - Great for reducing pigment transfer and improving tone over time, but more gradual.
PHYTO ESTROGENS
These ingredients support skin health by addressing hormonal shifts, particularly during menopause or perimenopause. They help maintain skin elasticity, reduce hormone-driven breakouts, and balance oil production, ensuring that skin remains resilient and youthful even during times of hormonal fluctuation.
Soy Isoflavones - Mimics estrogen by binding to estrogen receptors. Shown to improve skin elasticity, increase collagen synthesis, and restore density in estrogen-depleted skin.
Vitex (Chasteberry) - Helps reduce hormonally driven breakouts and sebum production. Especially helpful for the shifting oil balance seen in perimenopause and menopause.
KERATOLITIC EXFOLIANTS
Keratolytic Exfoliants work by breaking down the bonds between dead cells on the skin surface, allowing them to shed more easily. This smooths the skin, clears pores, and enhances cell turnover. They are ranked below from strongest to gentlest, based on their molecular size, typical penetration depth, and relative irritation potential.
Glycolic Acid
Salicylic Acid w. Acacia
Lactic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Hibiscus (natural AHA)
Willow Bark (BHA precursor)
Natural Polyhydroxy Acid
WRINKLE RELAXERS
These ingredients work to smooth and soften the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles by targeting muscle contractions and reducing skin tension, offering a more relaxed and youthful look.
GABA - Down-regulates acetylcholine, which reduces muscle contractions and helps minimize the appearance of expression lines.
Magnesium Glycinate - Helps prevent excessive muscle contraction that can lead to the formation of wrinkles by promoting relaxation, especially in areas prone to repetitive facial movements like the forehead and around the mouth and eyes.
SEBUM REGULATORS
Sebum regulators help balance oil production by either reducing excess sebum or normalizing its composition. This can help minimize shine, reduce clogged pores, and improve the appearance of oily or acne-prone skin.
Zinc PCA - Strong sebostatic (oil-reducing) and anti-inflammatory action; helps reduce acne and shine by directly targeting sebocytes.
Capryloyl Glycine - Lowers sebum by inhibiting the enzyme that converts testosterone to the more potent androgen DHT, which is the primary stimulator of sebum production.
L-Carnitine - Reduces sebocyte activity and helps skin metabolize fatty acids more efficiently, lowering oil levels.
Niacinamide - Clinically proven to reduce sebum, improve barrier function and reduce pore appearance over time by down regulating the transcription factors that control lipid production.
Green Tea - The EGCGs in green tea bind and block androgen receptors in skin responsible for signaling sebum production; gentler and slower-acting than the others.
ANTI-MICROBIALS
Anti-microbials inhibit the growth or kill harmful microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and yeast on the skin. They help prevent infections, reduce breakouts, and support a balanced skin microbiome.
Silver Citrate - Contains silver ions that bind to bacterial enzymes, proteins, and DNA—disrupting their function and stopping replication. Very strong broad spectrum action.
Poly epsilon-Lysine Primarily antibacterial, especially against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria. Kills by disrupting cell membranes through charge-based attraction—its positive charge binds to negatively charged bacteria, destroying them.
Succinic Acid This bio-derived antibacterial targets acne. It also calms inflammation, reduces sebum, and offers gentle exfoliation without irritation.
Zinc PCA - Inhibits the activity of crucial enzymes involved in bacterial metabolism and growth, especially effective against acne.
*Wildcrafted or Certified Organic (USDA or EcoCert)
**Crystal Serum Ingredients require no preservation. Store in dry conditions at room temperature & out of direct light.
BOTANICAL OIL INGREDIENTS
A blend of lipophilic actives infused in a base of botanical oils.**
Active Ingredient Selector
ANTIOXIDANTS
Alpha Lipoic Acid - This high efficiency R/S (racemix) is highly stable and deeply penetrating. A powerful antioxidant, it helps to neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation, brighten skin tone, and improve texture.
Sea Buckthorn - Sea buckthorn is a powerful all-rounder. It's packed with potent antioxidants, crucial for protecting the skin from free radical damage. It also contains an impressive array of regenerative omegas that help strengthen the lipid barrier, and boasts significant anti-inflammatory effects. This makes it highly beneficial for soothing irritated skin, reducing redness, and addressing conditionsfrom eczema and rosacea to acne.
Vitamin C - Oil based Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is less acidic and better tolerated by reactive and sensitive skin. It can reach the dermis, where collagen is produced — making it more effective for collagen stimulation and wrinkle reduction.
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
Alpha Bisabolol - Inhibits pro-Inflammatory enzymes, suppresses cytokines, calms itch, sting, and burning sensations, and has broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity.
CBD/CBG - Regulates immune and inflammatory responses, reduces cytokine release, and protects nerve endings from oxidative stress.
Licorice - Modulates cytokines and inhibits inflammatory enzymes, soothes micro-tearing in skin)
White Willow - Natural salicins act like aspirin to reduce pain, redness, and heat in inflamed skin.
BARRIER/MOISTURE RETENTION
Glycerin - We can add glycerin to your Botanical Oil to create a bi-phase formula that you have to shake to blend before using. Glycerin, a naturally occurring component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), is a powerful humectant. It acts like a magnet, drawing water from the air and from deeper layers of the skin to ensure the surface stays hydrated. Glycerin has been shown to aid in wound healing, and is especially beneficial for dry, cracked, or compromised skin.
Myristyl Nicotinate B3 - Not a hydrator like the others, this oil based form of niacinamide works over time to strengthen the skin barrier. It also will hellp reduce redness, and improve uneven tone. The enhanced penetration of this oil form of B3 delivers higher concentrations of the active where it's needed for faster targeted results.
Ceramides - Our ceramides system contains Ceramide 3, along with the essential fatty acids and sterols it needs for optimal penetration and performance. Ceramides can hold up to 1,000 times their weight in water when supported by a balance of lipids —helping to lock in moisture, restore barrier integrity, and keep skin plumped and smooth.
DNA PROTECTION & REPAIR
Edelweiss - Known for its calming, anti-aging, and skin-firming properties, this alpine botanical is rich in leontopodic acids and powerful antioxidants that help shield skin from environmental stress, soothe irritation, and support the barrier function.
Lycopene - A potent carotenoid antioxidant known for its deep red hue, Lycopene plays a key role in protecting skin cells from oxidative damage that can lead to DNA mutations. It helps support natural repair processes while promoting firmness and tone.
LONGEVITY & RENEWAL
Apple Stem Cells – Derived from the rare Uttwiler Spätlauber apple, known for its exceptional ability to regenerate, apple stem cells help stimulate skin's natural renewal processes. They promote skin longevity by creating a healthy micro-environmental niche around your cells while protecting them from damage .
FIRMING
Rosehip CO2 – Rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamin C, Rosehip CO2 oil helps promote skin elasticity and firmness by supporting collagen production. Its regenerative properties work to reduce the appearance of fine lines and sagging, improving the overall texture and tone of the skin.
White Lupine – Known for its high protein content, White Lupine stimulates the production of elastin and collagen in the skin, helping to visibly firm and tighten. It also works to smooth and refine skin texture, providing a more sculpted and youthful appearance.
CELL TURNOVER
Bakuchiol (Sytenol® A) – A plant-derived retinol alternative clinically shown to boost cell turnover without irritation. Unlike babchi oil, which can be unstable and sensitizing, Sytenol® A is a purified, standardized form of bakuchiol—gentle yet effective in smoothing texture, refining pores, and softening fine lines.
Fruit Acids – Naturally occurring AHAs (like lactic, glycolic, citric, malic, and tartaric acids) dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal fresher, brighter skin beneath. These acids stimulate cell renewal, improve tone and texture, and support better absorption of actives.
Retinol Liposomes – Encapsulated retinol for time-released delivery and reduced irritation. This stabilized form helps stimulate collagen production and accelerate skin renewal—visibly improving fine lines, uneven tone, and rough texture while minimizing sensitivity.
HORMONAL BALANCE
Evening Primrose - Rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), Evening Primrose supports hormonal balance by reducing inflammation and regulating hormone production. While the exact mechanisms of action aren't fully understood, Evening Primrose has also been linked to improved skin elasticity, firmness, and reduced dryness in general.
Vitex (Chaste Tree Berry) – Topically, Vitex is known for its ability to help balance skin affected by hormonal fluctuations. By supporting the regulation of progesterone and reducing excess estrogen, Vitex can help improve skin clarity and reduce the appearance of acne, particularly during hormonal breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe irritated or inflamed skin.
ANTISEPTIC
Mastic (EO) - Used for centuries to purify and heal injuries, mastic comes exclusively from the Greek island of Chios, where the unique climate and soil produce the highest quality resin. Mastic essential oil contains compounds shown to have broad-spectrum antimicrobial and anti-fungal activity. These compounds disrupt microbial cell membranes, inhibit bacterial growth, and help prevent infections.
CONDITIONING AGENTS
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides – Derived from coconut oil, these triglycerides act as a barrier enhancer, providing hydration and improving skin softness. They help stabilize formulations by creating a smooth texture, reducing moisture loss, and supporting the skin's natural protective barrier function.
Rosemary Oleoresin – Known for its powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, Rosemary Oleoresin helps reduce skin irritation and redness. It also acts as a natural preservative, helping to extend the shelf life of products while promoting calm, balanced skin.
Vitamin E – A potent antioxidant, Vitamin E protects skin cells from oxidative stress and environmental damage. It helps stabilize formulations by preventing the degradation of oils and fats, while also supporting skin repair and hydration, leaving skin soft and nourished.
Plant Lipids
LIGHT WEIGHT OILS
Benefits: Absorbs faster, spreads easily, penetrates deeper and leaves skin with a satin or matte finish and a polished look.
Formulator’s Note: Lightweight oils are your best choice for daytime use. They work under makeup and are top notch at protecting skin from oxidative damage.
*APRICOT SEED (Turkey)
*BAOBAB (sub-Saharan Africa)
*BLUEBERRY SEED (France)
*BROCCOLI SEED (Italy)
*CUCUMBER SEED (India)
*GOOSEBERRY (India)
*GRAPE SEED (USA)
*KAKADU PLUM (Australia)
*KALAHARI MELON (South Africa)
*KIWI SEED (Australia)
*RED RASPBERRY SEED (France)
*ROSEHIP SEED (Chile)
SUGAR CANE SQUALANE (Brazil)
*TOMATO SEED (India)
MEDIUM WEIGHT OILS
Benefits: Absorbs in a minute or less, leaves a slight sheen. Skin feels lightly moisturized with a silky finish and a gliding feel.
Formulator’s Note: By blending oils of different weights, we can tailor your skincare to adjust its moisturizing and protective properties to match your environment.
*ALMOND (California)
*ARGAN (Morocco)
*BLACK SEED (Egypt)
*JOJOBA (Arizona)
*MEADOWFOAM (Oregon)
*PASSIONFRUIT (Australia)
*PRICKLY PEAR (Morocco)
*PUMPKIN (New York State)
*STRAWBERRY (USA)
HEAVY WEIGHT OILS
Benefits: Heavy oils create a protective barrier that takes a long time to absorb. They are intensive moisturizers making them perfect for dry, mature, or sensitive skin and ideal for overnight hydration.
Formulator’s Note: By blending heavy oils we can craft formulations tailored to everything from cold weather sports to natural ‘slugging’.
*CASTOR (USA)
*CHERRY (Turkey)
*MACADAMIA (Hawaii)
*POMEGRANATE (California)
RICE BRAN (USA)
*WALNUT (California)
*Wildcrafted or Certified Organic (USDA or EcoCert)
** Our oils are stored under refrigeration beneath a blanket of argan gas to protect from light, heat and air. Depending on your formulation, we may, with your consent, add caprylic/capric triglycerides, rosemary oleoresin or Vitamin E to your blend.